Mt. Kelimutu National Park is the smallest among six national parks in the stretch between Bali and the Nusatenggara islands. Its size obviously does not matter much when it offers one of the most spectacular
wonders that nature has to offer. There are three
lakes on the mountain sharing the same name, Kelimutu, meaning ‘the
boiling lake’. Each has its own colors and a local name. But all are
believed to be the resting place of departed souls.
Located some 66 km. from the town of Ende or 83 km. from Maumere,
Lake Kelimutu was discovered by a Dutch named Van Such Telen in 1915.
It gained global fame after Y. Bouman wrote in his notes in 1929 about
the bizarre color-changing lakes.
As travelers start ascending from Moni, a small rural
town, a basecamp for backpackers, idyllic views appear which will remain
perfect in the mind. The westernmost lake is named Tiwu Ata Mbupu, meaning ‘the lake of old people’. The middle one is called Tiwu Nuwa Muri Koo Fai, or ‘the lake for young men and maiden’. The easternmost is called Tiwu Ata Polo, or ‘the lake for evils spirits’. The three lakes are quite a display as their colors keep changing.
Unlike the Blue Lake in Mt. Gambier, South Australia, that changes color
from blue to cold steel grey within a predictable period, or Lake
Yudamari in Mt. Nakadake, in Japan, that changes from blue-green to
green, the Kelimutu lakes are unpredictable as to when and what color
they will change into. Sometimes, the colors are blue, green, and black,
and some other times they turn to white, red, and blue. The last time a
traveler saw them, one was dark brown, just like a pond of chocolate.
Previously, the east lake was red and the middle lake was blue.
Scientifically speaking, lakes change colors due to subaqueous
fumaroles. Scientists believe that these are the result of minor
phreatic eruptions in ancient time. The phenomenon here, however, are of
particular interest to geologists since the three lakes present
different colors but are yet located on the peak of the same volcano.
The local ranger in the national park explained that this is due to
chemical reactions of materials contained in the lake, triggered by
volcanic gaseous activities. The local people in Moni, however, believe that somehow people around the mountain have done something evil and have died there.
Lake Kelimutu is part of the Kelimutu National Park, presenting a highly
aesthetic value and surreal experience. The national park’s highest
point is 5,679 feet at Mt. Kelibara (1,731 meters), and 5,544 feet high
(1,690 meters) at Mt. Kelimutu. It is a national park that protects 19
endemic and endangered animals, among which, the Floresian punai (Treron floris), Wallacea owl (Otus silvicola), Floresian kancilan (Pachycephala nudigula), Floresian eagle (Spizeatus floris), and Timorese tesia (Tesia everetti).
Here are also endemic mice, deer, porcupines, and the legendary luwak or civet (Pharadoxurus hermaphroditus)
that gained its fame for the expensive coffee it produces. Visit Mt.
Kelimutu and the three-colored lakes as an essential part of your Flores
adventure.
To observe some of the fascinating images around Kelimutu you can visit these photo essays:
TO DO
Definitely a hike to Lake Kelimutu is the ultimate reason for any traveler coming to Moni or Ende.
The Kelimutu area is surrounded by forests containing flora that are
rarely found in other parts of Flores. Beside pine trees, there are also
ferns, casuarinas, red wood and edelweiss. Pine forests grow well on
this height of the Mt. Kelimutu. The other part of the mountain is dry
with highly unstable sand and soil. The locals believe that Mt. Kelimutu
is sacred and a source of fertility to the lands nearby.
Several parts of the national park are restricted due to geothermal
instability. Trekking is best around the safe areas between Moni and Mt.
Kelimutu. The track is a challenging 12-km rocky off-the-beaten path.
Climbing to the peak from the parking area is around 30 minutes on foot.
For other activities, please refer to to do in MONI.
TO STAY
Moni features simplicity that sometimes only backpackers can accept. The
term bungalow is far from luxurious. It is a term that locals know to
create hospitality in their colorless huts. If you wish to have a better
sleep on a better definition of comfort of a bed, Maumere is three
hours away or Ende with its Grand Wista Hotel.
Kelimutu Crater Lakes Ecolodge is built in 2010 and is
only a 20 minutes drive to Kelimutu National Park. Hot shower is
available as well as western toilet. It is an environmentally conscious
hotel. Book it via several hotel directory websites. So far, this is the
best resort and accommodation in the village. Honeymooners and
backpackers share a universal idea about the place.
Desa Koanara, Kelimutu, Ende
Phone: +62 361 7474 205 / 7474 204
Mobile: +62 813 39776 232
Watugana bungalow is a decent guesthouse suitable for
backpackers or budget travelers. Its 5 rooms are located on the first
floor at the sublevel of the building, and 2 others (the newly built
ones) on the upper level. There is very simple shower in each room,
together with mosquito-net bed. The price ranges from IDR 150,000 to IDR
250,000. To book the rooms, you must be sure that John, the local
keeper of the bungalow, has confirmed the availability. Sometimes, in
Moni, the faster person will get the room although you booked one an
hour or a day before.
Phone: +62 813 3916 7408 (John).
Bintang Lodge has only one room at the moment, but the
interior is fresh and new. The room is air-conditioned and the shower is
cold and hot. It is part of the café named Bintang Café. The room is
tagged for IDR 250,000 per night.
Hotel Arwanti is at the middle of the accommodation
area in Moni. The not-so-impressive shower is a cold one with 2 rooms in
a spacious wooden bungalow. The bungalows are part of the Arwanti Café
and Restaurant run by a local man named Andre.
Hotel Flores Sare is physically the tallest as it is
often a place for meetings and workshops on the top floor. The
unattended lobby is strangely impressive with lots of Jesus statues. The
rooms, however, are not that impressive and you must ask the staff to
clean the rooms before you check in. Flores Sare is close to Kelimutu
Crater Lake Ecolodge an can be reached at +62 381 21075
Sao Ria Wisata (Local Government-run bungalows)
The setting is excellent, overlooking the lush garden and vegetable plantation. Ask the staff to clean the facilities prior to checking in.
TO EAT
There are a few restaurants in Moni. Simple warungs for locals are also
available in Moni’s local market, but very limited to local needs. Going
to Kelimutu, you do not have to bring food since the hiking is only an
hour or so. You must bring your own before going to the national park,
especially drinking water. Ginger tea sellers are available at the top
of the mountain where people flock there to watch the sunrise.
Arwanti Restaurant and Bintang Restaurant are most recommended.
TO BUY
Local souvenirs are available at the parking area. You will find kain
ikat, the hand woven shawl or sarong made especially in Flores. Each
district in Flores has its own motifs.
Harapan Jaya(woven materials, ivory carvings)
Jl. Pasar Baru Timur
Phone : +62 (0) 382 821227,821240 Maumere
Jl. Pasar Baru Timur
Phone : +62 (0) 382 821227,821240 Maumere
Karya Baru(woven materials, handicrafts, antiques)
Jl. R. Suprapto No. 4
Phone :+62 (0) 382 821454 Maumere
Jl. R. Suprapto No. 4
Phone :+62 (0) 382 821454 Maumere
GET AROUND
Kelimutu area is surrounded with forest containing floras that are
scarcely found in Flores area. Other than pines, there are also
casuarinas, red wood and edelweiss. Pine forest grows well in this side
of Kelimutu Mountain. The other side of the mountain is dried land with
highly unstable sand and soil. Local community believes that Kelimutu
Mountain is sacred and donates fertility to the nature nearby.
Visitors can only walk around Lake Kelimutu but not all areas can be
explored because some are dangerous and therefore restricted. From Moni
to Kelimutu, if you like to go trekking, there is a path which is
shorter than the car access route.
Distance from Moni to the top is about 12 kilometer (km). The distance
to the parking lot by motor vehicle is 11 kilometer, and then visitors
will climb on foot through the pathway for 30 minutes.
GET THERE
Koanara village, in the Wolowaru sub-district is closest to Mt.
Kelimutu, and is about 66 kilometers from the town of Ende, or 83
kilometers from Maumere. Moni is the closest small town, lying at the
foot of Mount Kelimutu. It is the gate to Lake Kelimutu. The distance
between Moni and Kelimutu is 15 kilometers.
You can take an ojek, a motorbike taxi, car or public
transportation to take you to a parking lot before Kelimutu’s peak.
Buses to Ende from Maumere will pass Moni. They call it BIS KAYU or oto kol , the wooden pick-up truck. From there, you must walk 30 minutes along the mountain side.
There are daily flights from Denpasar and Kupang to Maumere. Please refer to information on how to get there when in Labuan Bajo.
TIPS
Kelimutu is usually blanketed by thick fog. Travelers, however, go very
early in the morning to catch the sunrise when the fog clears when the
sun rises. This is the best moment to see the lake. Do not be late for
the sunrise. Usually trekkers walk up as early as 3.30 am.
The best time to visit is in July and August. Book your hotels early if
possible, as people tend to reserve a room one or two months ahead.
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